The northern section of the Oodnadatta Track are in the traditional lands of the Arabana people.
It also contains some relics of the Old Ghan line.
Such as the Algebuchiner Bridge and the old station area at Oodnadatta
An attempt to ride north to Dalhousie Springs ended in a bog and inglorious retreat
So it was another night at Oodnadatta the as the desert dawn sun lit the road in front in front of me it was time to complete the final 200kn of the Oodnadatta track
The road from William Creek to Coober Pedy was rough with lots of sand drifts – my biggest weak spot – SAND.
A large part of the track transverses the Woomera Military Base. I’m sure the leave the road rough so no one dare look left or right for fear of hitting a big sand drift.
But due to rare summer rain the desert was green and I arrived in Coober Pedy, where the populace live underground to escape the heat on a mild afternoon.
The climatologists said it was going to be a mild summer – go climatologists.
Not a day over 30 in 4 days in the hottest part or Australia in late summer
The underground nature of Coober Pedy creates a different street scape.
The road from Coober Pedy to Oodnadatta crosses the Painted Desert. I can’t describe how beautiful it is and my photos can’t capture it.
The changes of colour from pink to yellow to green with glimpses of quartz glimmering in the sun.
Then there is the water holes.
And as the day warms up they siren call the traveller into the cool water.
Now I sit in the Pink Road House in Oodnadatta enjoying a cold beer.
Its 40 years since I last really road in the desert.
The desert and the sky in its vastness makes me feel small.
A speck on a motorbike in this huge space. How can one not be in awe of nature.
The name The Ghan was derived from the Afghan camel handlers who were instrumental in opening up the centre of Australia to European settlement and in building the railway.
This historic mosque is a remnant of the Afghan presence.
The southern part of the Track is straight and fairly well sealed with quirky sideshows along the way.
It also skirts Southern Lake Eyre.
Coward Springs sits amongst provides a sheltered camping space amongst date palms originally introduced by the Afghan camel herders.
The owners have planted a new date plantation.
It provides a sheltered place to campin the arid country.
Coward Springs sits amongst a ground of mound springs.
And has a natural spa on site feed from such a spring
What a relief after a long ride!
Mound Springs are a unique part of outback Australia where water bubbles out of the ground from Australia’s Great Artesian Basin.
These springs provide green oasis in this otherwise arid land
The Southern section of the Track ends at William Creek an old railway siding with a welcoming hotel.
It was time for a break, adjust the drive, have a cold drink and choose my route to Oodnadatta.
The choice is direct or via Coober Pedy. Time is on my side so I have taken the long way via the underground town of Coober Pedy.
A mob of sheep being hearded along the road side to confirm you are in rural Austratralia
That you are in the mid west of NSW
I waited till it was clear to skirt around the outside of the mob and the sheep dogs and farmer skilfully hearded the sheep into the selected paddock
You also know you are in mid west NSW when you set up tent in the back of the Premer Hotel and enjoy the hospitality and a few Schooners of Old.
But the purpose of the trip north was not to enjoy the mustering of sheep or the taste of a Tooheys old but to test the Steinbock’s comfort for long touring and to test its ability on some of my favourite riding roads. Also to test it on trails I had been reluctant on which to ride the mighty breva.
The Steinbock handled the beautiful roads of the Coffs Coast area of NSW with aplomb taking the beautiful Waterfall Way and its surrounding roads in its stride. AA full tick of approval indeed
But the real test was the Armidale to Kempsey back road that included 127 km of varying road surfaces through national parks and beautiful farming land. (see map above)
What a ride! I also became very aware of how tiring riding on trails iy is compares to road riding.
In the highlands south west of Kempsey are the beautiful Ellenborough Falls. The longest single drop falls in NSW
From to falls east there is there is the Flying Fox Refuge in Wingham on the Manning River
Not far from the coast and its beautiful beaches
The Motorcycle Museum at Nabiac is emblematic of the biker culture in this part Australia
And a travelling piecemeal adventurer can find like souls – lovers of bikes and boats
The test was complete and the ride back to Melbourne was direct and purposeful
As I write Melbourne and Victoria are in a circuit breaking lockdown.
Hopefully, these actions curtail the current outbreak of Covid 19 and I will soon be on my adventure to Central Australia via the Oodnadatta Track.
After four long months and the defeat of the spread of the Covid-19 virus in Melbourne, restrictions were lifted and travel within rural parts of the state of Victoria is allowed.
Time to spread the wings
The route – an 1800km loop around the outskirts of Melbourne – A route I will dub the outer Melbourne Ring Road.
Victoria, is the smallest mainland state of Australia but with a diverse landscape some iconic riding roads, along the coast and over mountains.
This route took in aspects of them all
Starting with a trip in company past the Port Phillip Bay Heads (the Rip) an often treacherous piece of water but calm and benign this day.
Off the ferry it was a ride through the Mornington Peninsula to Cape Schank and its magnificent view over Bass Strait
There is a lovely ride from Cape Schank to the township of Flinders before heading up to the first set of mountain twisties around the base of Mount Baw Baw.
And through some magnificent old growth forest.
After a run on the back roads of Gippsland camp awaited at Bruthen and the start of the Great Alpine Road.
From Bruthen the Great Alpine Road runs up the Tambo River Valley
Up to the summit of Mount Hotham
The northern side of the mountain is the most steep and a bit of a testing ride at times and then just after it flattens out there is a turn off to Mount Beauty over the Towonga Gap Road; with its beautiful views over the Kiewa Valley and the Mount Beauty Township.
Storms were forecast and a caravan was found beside the Kiewa River
After the storm the next morning was cool and the clouds still hung in the Valley
To the Grampian Ranges and a ride through these amazing rocky outcrops.
By this time the weather had turned wet and cold and it was a dash south across the western district plains to a warm hotel in the green rolling hills of the Otway Ranges hinterland.
A gentle ride along the Great Ocean Road.
An old time favourite ride see previous posts here and here
The air was crispy cold as I headed out of the city and into the rural hinterland of Melbourne
As I passed over the Murchison Gap the rich green farming land was rolling out in front of me – a sight to see
The little back roads winding through the hills and farmland beckoning
But it was a holiday weekend and the roads were slowly filling, even the back roads were starting to bulge with caravans being towed by big SUVs. Post the Covid 19 lockdown I think all Melbournites were keen to get out of the city.
After the lovely tourist town of Marysville I was heading for the Black Spur only to hit a long line of traffic
A sign to Warburton  a quick to the left and I was on a little road through the forest
The old town in Annecy built around little canals that flow into the lake is a treat
The lakes are the feature of both Annecy and Aix les Bains.
In Aix-les-Bains the steep cliffs around Lac du Bourget provide a riding and viewing pleasure
Especially when you find a little Cafe perched on the cliff edge
To enjoy a beautiful Savoia pinot noir and chucaterie selection.
I was lucky enough to be able to join in solidarity with French Climate Activists and march is support of the world’s beautiful natural places. The planet is worth making a stand for!
