Back on the edge of the Outback -2

"See here, young man," said Mulga Bill, "from Walgett to the sea,
From Conroy's Gap to Castlereagh, there's none can ride like me.

From “Mulga Bill’s Bicycle” by Banjo Patterson.

I like stopping at the towns and villages recounted in the early Australian balads.

The flood plains of the Namoi River were full of water.

In the “land of drought and flooding rain” therehe had been a flooding monsoon north in tropical Queensland a couple of months earlier. The flood waters were slowly moving south, bringing vital water to the edge of the Outback as it travels thousands of kilometres to the Murray River, which empties into the Southern Ocean.

Wallgett was just a photo stop as my destination was Lightning Ridge, famous for its Opals.

Lightning Ridge is very much more a tourist town rather than a prospecting these days. Especially if compared to the Opel prospecting South Australia, Coober Pedy, and Blinman.

There are some good aspects to a tourist town….

The street art…

The Opal shops…

Even fine coffee with delicious apple strudel and ice cream.

Lightning Ridge sits on the Great Artesian Drive, a series of thermal baths drawing water from Australia’s Great Artesian Basin.

It was hot 30c in Lightning Ridge so I enjoyed the cold water of the campground pool to the hot spa.

My next stop was Brewarrina and little detour to Goodooga for a hot bath in the cool of the morning.

I arrived at the Aboriginal Cultural Centre in Brewarrina for the last cultural tour of the day

Brewarrina sits where the northern rivers come together to form the Darling River, which funels the monsoon rains of the tropical north of Australia southward along the edge of the Outback, providing precious water to a dry land.

Brewarrina, which means Tall Trees, was/is a special meeting place for Aboriginal Australians. The rock fish traps pictured above were built over 10,000 years ago. And were an intrcately designed so that fish could be caught and stored in ponds.

This photograph (below) from 1870 shows aboriginal children collecting fish from the fish traps.

The banks of the Darling River also contain ochre, which is used for skin care and decoration by aboriginal people.

Unfortunately, the high state of the river had covered fish traps. But a river full of water is something beautiful in itself.

And on the river bank, I spied some some red tailed black cockatoos. A beautiful bird that lives along the rivers on the edge of the outback.

From Brewarrina, it was time to follow the river flow south toward home.

Back on the edge of the Outback -1

You really know you are back in the outback when you find emus running down the main street of the town.

I’d spent the night at the pub in Nymagee on my way to the Macquarie Marshes, a 198sqkm oasis in the dry plains of North West NSW.

The fact that you are in the Outback is reinforced when you confront a road train at a water crossing!

I set up camp in Coolabah Gum woodland opposite the woolshed at Willie Retreat about 5km from the southern end of the Macquarie Marshes.

The woodland was home to a beautiful selection of small woodland birds.

The oldest known Coolabah gum is 300+ years old. The Coolabahs in this woodland were old and gnarled with plenty of hollows to form homes for the little birds.

The next day, I woke to a beautiful outback dawn…

And headed down to marshes.

In the light of the day, the small birds were flittering around, catfish were jumping, waders were hunting, and the pelicans rode high on the thermal updrafts.

As the sun went down, the mood and colours changed.

Across the water, a crafty fox was keeping an eye on me.

The Birruma Boardwalk is 25km north od Willie Retreat and provides a way of walking through the, otherwise, impenetrable reeds and across the top of the boggy marshes.

A further 50km up.the road, at the northern end of the Marshes, is the town of Carinda famous for cotton growing and for having tge pub where David Bowie’s Lets Dance film clip was recorded.

Follow the link to see inside the pub.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=VbD_kBJc_gI&si=kveFHCryACAg-peb

Above is the outside! So lets dance!!!!!

The fast way from Split to London

It was late September, and with my adventure in the Balkans complete, I bordered the overnight ferry from Split to Ancona.

From Ancona, it was an easy ride across Italy to Civitavechia, the Port of Rome to catch the ferry to Barcelona.

A restful way to travel and 14,000 km touring.

The village of Civitavechia is a little way from the port, but it is a nice place for a bit of sightseeing while waiting for the ferry.

There is a certain chaos at Italian ferry ports. There are no electronic tickets, and the ticket office always seems to be placed a long way from the ferry dock with a myriad of one way unmarked lanes to be negotiated between the two.

But the Italian ferries are relatively inexpensive, and it was a restful 20 hour crossing from Rome to Barcelona.

From Barcelona, I took a route across the Pyrenees through Andorra. Agh the beautiful Pyrenees.

I stopped for the night at Ax les Termes in the Midi Pyrenees. A beautiful hot spring village. With public hot foot baths.

My next destination was to Cahors and its famous bridge. Travelling along the tree lined back roads, past the Midi Canal, rivers, and beautiful villages.

Cohors is a vibrant city. To complement the famous bridge.

My last stop in Europe for this trip was the port city of St Malo, with its old walled town right on the Atlantic Ocean

Of course I had to join in for a swim!!!

For lovers of the maritime world the port at St Malo is a treasure.

The overnight ferry had me soon back in England and my sister’s house in London.

Before boarding the flight back to Australia, I caught up with a mate for lunch in the Cottswalds. A beautiful part of England and reputedly an inspiration for the writing of ‘The Hobbit’ and the ‘Lord of the Rings’.

It’s February in Australia as I reminisce about last year. There are some adventures to be had here at home, but my mind keeps back to a sign at Civitavechia.

I’ve been to Spain (Spagna). Ive been to Greece (Grecia), Sardinia (Sargegna), and Sicily (Sicilia): but I haven’t been to Tunisia.

I think I’d better fix that this year!

Croatia 2 – Split and the Central Mountains

From the Gacka Valley, I headed south along the mountains to Lake Peruca, in the mountains east of Split.

The mountain road south runs parallel with the Bosnia and Herzegovina Border, and through the Dinaric Alps

This region hosts the Dinaric Rally, a major cross country motorcycle endurance event.

Lake Peruca is a man made lake and a major source of hydro electricity. It also has a number of camping sites and villages.

I chose Camping Peruca by the lake. The campsite had water access for swimming. From the campsite, it was a short ride into the Danaric Ranges and the headwaters of the Certina River that feeds the dam.

The ride to Split is a little over an hour, mostly winding through the Certina Valley.

Spit is Croatia’s second largest city. Its a great place to get any equipment, like misplaced gloves or gloves or repairs such as a new tyre. Its also a ferry hub. As I came into Split in mid August and left late September. While it was still pleasantly warm in September, there were nowhere near the crowds, so getting around the old and new city was a lot easier.

The old city was interesting with its mix of Roman and Greek architecture.

Out of the old city and main harbour the new city is colourful and where the best swimming beaches are.

As an old city, Split didn’t have the history or beauty of Ortigia (which I found entrancing). But it is well placed for visiting other Balkan countries and for accessing the many islands on the Croatian coast.

It’s time for the 2023 European Adventure

It’s hard to believe that a week ago I arrived in London and now I’m sitting in Cherbourg, France at the start of this year’s European Adventure.

A new discovery in London was the Regent Park Outdoor Theatre only a short walk from Baker Street Station. You can’t miss it there is a statue of Sherlock Holmes stands there.

My time in London was filled in by my sister (and cultural guide) and collecting and preparing the Mighty Breva for this year’s 3 month trip across Europe.

I took the ferry from Poole to Cherbourg. Poole is the second largest natural harbour in the world after Sydney Harbour and there are some great views sailing out on the ferry.

It was a smooth crossing to Cherbourg and it didn’t seem long till France was in site.

You do get a special welcome when you arrive in France on Bastille Day.

The small town orchestra come out to play.

And when finally gets dark around 11pm, the fireworks fill the sky.

Cherbourg is my favourite gateway port into France. It’s a charming city with a rich maritime history. Also beautiful seafood and loads of that great European moto culture!