I was sitting savouring my exquisite long black coffee with cinnamon and apple muffin.
As often happens the conversation started with the words ‘ Nice bike’. This one finished with direction to a local camping spot beside the Gregory River.
An oasis in the harsh dry country
Spring fed flowing crystal clear water.
Water so clear you can see the little fish in the water
A place so quiet and peaceful
The little finches, honey eaters and willie wag tails would fly down and pose nonchalantly for the camera
Water is life
This water in the Gregory River that fell in monsoons thousands of years ago, on mountains thousands of kilometres away percolates underground coming forth as a spring to bring life to the desert.
Sitting comfortably in Fannie Bay, Darwin, its time to recap on the wild ride across the remote country just south of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Not far along the road from Normanton to Burketown is the Burke and Wills Monument.
The trees at the camp were scarred as proof of the camp.
The last camp of explorers who perished in an attempt to explore this harsh land.
There were in the exploration party. Only one survived because he was found and saved by local aborigines.
The monument to this day is a warning to respect this land.
Travelling west along this section of the Savannah Way land is dry and dusty and the rivers, torrents in the wet season are just strings of waterholes that as summer progresses will disappear.
This can be seen clearly at Leichhardt Falls.
Where I stood on the dry rocks over which only a few month ago water roared and photographed the waterhole no longer flowing and turning green as it stagnates.
Arriving Burketown I’m again reminded that water in the desert comes from the ground as well as the sky.
Water has been bubbling out of the mound spring in Burketown at a temperature of 68c since before history.
The hot water and the minerals it carries from deep in the earth painting the mound and surrounding landscape.
The old post office is now the tourist office. Unfortunately, there were no places left to do the balloon ride over the desert so I had to settle for the sunset river cruise.
Gregory Downs is little more that a hotel
And a small shack that sells dry good, some locally grown vegetables and …
Espresso coffee and home made apple and cinnamon muffins!!!
What an oasis!
As was finding the Gregory River. A spring fed watercourse in the desert and my first introduction to the spring fed rivers of North West Queensland.
An amazing collection of fossils, gemstones, petrified and fossilised wood and minerals of all types.
Georgetown also has samples the distinctive Queensland outback buildings.
Croydon was very successful gold mining centre so successful special train line built from the port town of Normanton. Now jokingly called the train from nowhere to nowhere the Gulflander is a tourist ride.
Croydon’s Historic Precinct contains a number of official building from the height of the 1870s gold rush.
The road to Einasleigh and Forsayth are off the main Savannah Way so include some unsealed roads till Georgetown.
The travelling is beautiful
Through savannah woodlands,
Across river causeways, where the rivers roaring floods in the tropical wet season is reduced to a feeble flow.
But still hold water in lagoons full of water lillies and birds.
And one can see a magpie goose on the wing
On the way to Croydon the Steinbock clocked over 22,000km since I purchased it in January this year. It’s been a crazy 6 months of travel.
The poster girl
Next the landscape changes again. The Gulf Country – the Gulf of Carpentaria. The rivers are big estuaries full of big salt water crocodiles. Normanton, on the croc infested Norman River is my next stop.