The Ostrich the largest bird in the world (followed by the Cassowary and Emu found in my home Australia)wanders the plains grassy planes of Africa including the Masai mara.
A flightless bird it sometimes crosses path with the Secretarybird
While a flighted bird it spends most of its time on the ground hunting. Unfortunately this unique bird is disappearing and is listed as vulnerable. The Secretarybird gets its name from the spikey head quills that are, I’m told, likened to the pencils that secretaries used to place behind their ear.
The Secretarybird has a featherless face and predators beak like a vulture.
The vultures featherless head and long featherless neck though is specially designed for this carrion eater.
But is was the colourful birds this I were one of the highlights of the Masai mara for me.
The Masai Mara richly deserves its reputation as one of the great natural reserves in the world
Here one finds the living culture of the Masai people,
The amazing landscape of the the norther Serengeti Plane, and
Most notable the array of unique and amazing African wild life
The Masai are reputed to be warrior tribe but traditionally they have been primarily nomadic pastoralists roaming the grassy planes of what was once known as Masailand.
These days like many of the tribes in North East Africa the Masai way of life is in a battle to adapt to evolving life in Africa.
The nomadic life is more constrained due to population, land use and the desire to remain close to schools and education for the next generation.
Over the next few posts I will look at the amazing wild like of the Masaimara,
The Oxpecker is the Rhino’s best mate. The bright eyed warning siren for the sleeping short sighted rhino. The Oxpecker keeps an eye out for the rhino’s predators as it feeds on the parasites in the Rhino’s hard hide.
The muddy shores of the lake is also a welcome home fpt Water Buffalo
In the forests surrounding the lake the are baboons;
Rothschild giraffes;
Waterbuck;
and cute little Deseys.
Lake Nakura is about 160km WNW of Nairobi.
This visit was over 15 years ago and from what I have read the park has been enlarged. It certainly a place that stays in one’s mind.
South of Addis Ababa, running down from Ethiopia’s central plateau is the Rift Valley
Near the city of Arba Minch is Lake Chamo the last of 8 lakes in the Rift Valley running south from Addis Ababa.
From points in Abar Minch you can look over Lake Chamo and Lake Abaya
Abar Minch is a great stepping off point to explore the tribal south of Ethiopia and the Bale mountains.
But a boat ride on Lake Chamo is a must before heading south.
To see the Nile Crocodile nursery
To see the African Pelicans. These birds migrate up into the Danube Delta in Romania for the European summer (see Danube Delta blog under Romania in the menu).
See the fishermen casting for Nile Perch just around the corner from the crocodile nursery
Till the sun starts to set on the beautiful lake.
Lake Awasa
Awassa and its lake are approximately 290 km south of Addis Ababa and a well serviced tourist destination.
At a bit over 1,700 meters above sea level Awasa retains the mild temperatures that are a feature of Ethiopia’s Central Plateau.
The colourful fishing boats and fish market is an attraction of Lake Awasa
As is the wild life in particular the Marabou Stalk, particularly in and around the fish market (see above)
But also:
Sea Eagles
King Fishers large and small,
Jacana and
Colobus monkeys on the lake shoreline.
The area around Awasa is very productive
With abundant fresh fruits
And lots of coffee being grown dried and sorted in the region.
Ethiopia is an amazing country. One of a handful of countries never to be colonised by a European power. (Though there has been significant European presence and influence).
Unfortunately political tensions have again arisen which hopefully be resolved.
I leave my lockdown reflections of Ethiopia now.
Next reflections in Africa will be in Kenya and the amazing wildlife there.
For those wanting to find out more about Ethiopia I recommend the above book amazing research text and images.
The Omo River valley is the centre of the tribal area of Ethiopia
The south east of Ethiopia near where the borders of Ethiopia, Kenya and South Sudan meet is home to a group of mainly nomadic tribes
It is largely a very traditional part of Ethiopia with numerous tribes, mainly nomadic, living in the highlands and valleys surrounding the Omo River
If visiting the part of the Ethiopia the South Omo Research Centre Museum, Which is a German/Ethiopian collaboration provides awonderful introduction to the tribes and their cultures in the Region
Outside the museum
Not far from Jinka along one of the dirt roads that connect villages
Roads which the walking paths through the landscape
Is the small market village of K’ey Afer which on market day is abuzz with colour and activity
Selling spices and earthenware
And cattle and sheep
K’ey Afer is n the Hamar tribal area
Each tribe is distinctive in clothing hairstyle and custom. Some tribes are less welcoming to tourists that others.
Like all traditional cultures though there is a challenge to of maintaining custom in the face of western society encroachment
Up in the mountains
Is the land of the Mursi, a warrior tribe and visiting without prior approval is not advised
The Omo River winds its south toward Lake Turkana which is the largest permanent desert lake and largest alkaline lake in the world.
This southern part of Ethiopia is very hot, dry and dusty a significant contrast to the cool moistness of the central plateau.
This is Dassanetch country and these nomadic herders land has traditionally spanned the borders of Ethiopia, Kenya and South Sudan
The simple housing reflective of the nomadic existence of the Dassanetch
All culturally and physical distinctive in their own ways.
It is nearly 13 years since visiting this part of Ethiopia and even then the tribal life here was under threat. – Like traditional life in all continents.
Since this time the Omo River has been dammed and resettlement from the more populous parts of Ethiopia into this Zone has accelerated.
All this presents a survival challenge for these traditional tribes , their culture and way of life
