Cape York – On the trail of our indigenous culture and James Cook

On the banks of the Endeavour River, in Cooktown, there is an interpretive plaque that says the James Cook and the local aborigines reconciled in 1770.

Was it a reconciliation of convenience? Cook had a damaged ship that needed repair. Or was he open to a deeper understanding.


The rock art on Cape York is evidence of a complex culture many thousands of years old. Some of the carvings in the walls of the Split Rock are estimated to be 13000 years old.

I’m a great admirer of James Cook, – three circumnavigations of the world before his death at 51 in Hawaii.

And know I can learn much from our indigenous culture, it’s spirituality and understanding of place and the land.

In Cape York the two came together.

I know I’m in the tropics…

It’s the smell
The warm moist fertile smell
Like any thing could grow here
Through central Queensland the smell was dry and dusty
Now it’s moist and you can smell and taste it

The tropical forests bring there interesting dangers
Even the plants

And of course there is the sugar cane. Been with me since the sub tropics.
It’s harvest time and sometimes the air is sickly sweet with the smell of sugar syrup especially near a mill grinding the cane

The tropics and sugar cane are synonymous for me.
Be it tropical Queensland,  Mauritius,  the Mekong Delta, the moist highlands of Ethiopia near the source of the Nile or South Pacific Islands, sugar cane was always there.

Being on a motorbike I’m in the moment, part of the environment, and experiencing the smells is part of it.